Here is a list of parts and tools you will need to do the job. Metric equivalents may be used. Depending on local costs, you should be able to build these for around $75, U.S. |
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Cut four more pieces, each 11 inches long. These will form the "legs" or mounting brackets. Lay each long piece on the floor facing the way it would be when mounted on the vehicle: i.e. the "open" part of the angles facing each other as if the vehicle were between them. |
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| Wwe need to remove some of the material on the "legs" in order to ready them for attachment. Using a grease pencil, make a mark on one side of the angle 4.375" from the end. | ||||
| Remove the existing rocker
panel plastic facing on each side of the vehicle and save
it. (Someone is always looking for parts!)
Using an ¼ " drill bit, drill a hole through each spot weld holding the metal mounting frame that held the plastic rocker panel to the side of the body. Try to put the hole in the center of the spot weld, if possible. This will save patch work later. Remove the mounting frame from the body and discard. Using a sanding disc, remove any sharp edges left from the spot welds and any rust found on the body panel. |
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Measure the distance from the back of the front wheel well to the front of the back one just below the fender flare. This figure could vary from stock depending on whether you have modified your front fender for larger tire clearance. Subtract the length of the new skid plate (44.375") from that figure, then divide by two. We'll call this distance "A". That will give you the distance to come in from each end of the new skid plate. Make a mark there (on the new skid plate). |
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You need to make one more measurement before you can trace the template. Take one of the 'legs' that you set aside earlier and press it up to the side of the vehicle --as if it were the new rocker skid plate-- just behind the front fender flare. Measure up from the bottom of the 'leg' to the bottom of the fender flare. Mark that spot and then measure the distance from the top of the 'leg' to the mark that you just made. This is the distance that you will mark on the new rocker panel piece in the same place. This way you will know how far down the new rocker piece to make your cut for the fender flare to fit into. This we'll call measurement 'B'. |
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| The bottom corner of the fender flare template should be at the mark you just placed on the new rocker piece. Laying the paper on the main skid plate, trace around the cut-out area with a grease pencil. Do this on both ends of each skid plate, turning the template over for each opposite end. | ||||
| Now you can clean, patch, prime, and paint the area of the body on each side that the skid plate will cover. While that is drying, use a cut-off wheel or a cutting torch and remove the unwanted material from the new skid plates. | ||||
| Time for a cold drink! You
earned it! J
By the time you're finished, the paint should be dry enough to work around. Grab your high-lift jack and one of the new skid plates and carry them over to the car. Slip one of the new skid plates in place on the side of the rig and hold it in place with the jack. Don't use a lot of pressure, you need to be able to move it a bit. Grab two of your new 'legs' (one for each end) and slip them in place over the skid plate and up against the rear of the front spring hanger and the front of the rear spring hanger. Using vice grips or clamps, hold one of the pieces in place while you tack-weld it to the skid plate. Check out the pictures below to see what I mean. |
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| Grind all edges smooth and clean and paint all sides of the skid plates. When dry, bolt the skid plates in place using the high-lift jack method to reduce back strain! Be sure and use the lock washers on the grade 8 bolts. | ||||
One final option is to seal the top edge where the plate meets the body with silicone to keep mud and dirt out. Notice the gash on the skid plate in the picture above? That would have been bad news if not for the protection! Good Luck!
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